I don't know when my love for eating was overtaken by my love for cooking. When was it that I changed from cooking to eat to eating to cook? It just came gradually, unperceivably slowly. I am frequently asked why I like to cook, as if it is something exceptional. One day recently, I answered, as I had numerous times before, that because I liked to eat well. Suddenly I felt like a liar. I realized that, because I usually ate my creations so quickly, it was more a test and duty than savoring. I no longer cook so that I can have good food to eat. I must at that point admit that I no longer cook to eat but eat to cook! There is a bit of sadness in that realization, as if some innocent pleasure has left me forever.
Somehow, my relationship with food has changed from consumption to performance and cooking has become an end in itself. Can I even call myself a gourmand anymore? When the preparation of food is more important than eating the food, it is difficult to pretend to be a gourmand! Fortunately, this is only true when I am cooking. I can still be a dedicated gourmand when it comes to someone else's food, may it be in a restaurant or a friend's dining room. This fact gives me a great deal of relief, like paradise re-found.
Why then can't I enjoy my own food as much as I enjoy others? Is it true that when you are cooking you sort of lose interest in eating? Or, is it because cooking and eating are two related but different roles, too difficult to switch so quickly? My thinking leans toward the latter. Case in point is making Gravlox. There are few things I enjoy making and eating as well as Gravlox in the middle of the summer when I can get those big fat fresh Fraser sockeye salmon from the fishing boat here in Vancouver. It isn't a complicated process but require some good skills in butchering the large fish. There is great pleasure of accomplishment for an amateur to cleanly dissect something so beautiful. The care required to slice perfectly along those soft bones and to pull out the line of pin bones on the fillet display a certain elegance. Then, the mixing and applying of the salt, sugar, pepper, dill and whatever else create an artistic kind of chemistry. Finally, the curing process is nothing but nature doing its work, without my involvement, except for a couple of turnings. It is this curing time that return me to being the eater from being the cook. In relation to the fish, I have time and other activities to extract myself from the role of the cook. When I return to that transformed piece of salmon, I am only the eater with the memory of the cook far back in my mind. The tasting and enjoyment is now pure. It is not the moment of truth, nor a duty to my own hard work; but a simple gourmand indulgence with the added pleasure of having it exactly the way I like it.
Maybe this is the alienation of production in its purist. We take on different roles when we produce and when we consume. When we produce, our enjoyment is fixed in the completion, and thus alienated from the actual purpose of the product, consumption. Similarly, when we consume, we actualize the full potential of the product, good or bad, but are alienated from its material history. The source of this alienation is not a material thing but an ideological thing. It involves a shifting of relations, an adjustment of subjectivity. In other words, it is a matter of re-positioning of oneself. A cook doesn't enjoy his own food quite as much as others because he is not supposed to, in an ideological kind of way.